*We found this at one of our favorite sites: Alivebynature*
From museum-quality quilts to charming gifts, the made-with love heritage is alive and well at the fair. One of the special things about “handmade” is that every project is unique. Each says a little something about the person who made it.
- This Sunflower and Crow Wreath,* with mama and her babies nesting inside, is Debra Lucas’s whimsical homage to autumn’s harvest. She cut the wide-eyed trio from wood, then painted and glued it all together.
- As Boyd Emerson crafted this personalized toy box for a good friend’s newborn child, he was harking back to the time-honored custom of making baby gifts by hand.
- Norman Sorensen’s keen interest in the days of Daniel Boone inspired this picturesque Log Cabin Birdhouse with “perch” and skylight. Easy building plans? Mostly gluing twigs together.
Here are several amazingly charming crafts you can create yourself!
SUNFLOWER AND CROW WREATH
You need: 18″ vine wreath with pocket; 1″ x 6″ pine, 24″L; scrap of 1/4″ plywood; saber saw; acrylic paint (black, yellow, white); brushes; sandpaper; 6″-dia straw hat; Spanish moss; brown paper twist; small artificial sunflowers; florist’s wire; glue gun.
Cutting wood: Enlarge crow patterns. From pine Cut one mama crow and two baby crows. From plywood Cut one large and two small beaks. Paint bodies black, beaks yellow with black “stitches.” Hot-glue beaks in place. Hat: Bend back brim; hot-glue. Hot-glue a flower to glued area, then hot-glue hat to head of mama crow. Assembling: Tuck some moss in wreath pocket; set crows in pocket (mama in middle, babies on either side). To secure, hot-glue crows and moss inside pocket.
Bow: Cut a 4-yd length of paper twist; unfurl and trim to 2″W. Tie into a large (7″-dia) loopy bow. Streamers Cut two 116-yd pieces of paper twist; unfurl. With the two pieces held together, set bow at midpoint, and secure bow to streamers with florist’s wire. Attach bow to top of wreath; let streamers cascade down sides of wreath; hot-glue. Hot-glue sunflowers to wreath (over places where streamers are glued) and also directly below crows.
SCARECROW DOLL 22″ Tall
You need: Fabric (for doll, muslin, 2 yds; for shirt, solid-color, 1/2 yd; for overalls, check, 3/4 yd); heavyweight nylon stocking; green felt, 4″ square; straw hat (11″-dia brim); 3/4″ dowel, 14″L; four 1/2″ flat buttons (for overalls); permanent fine-tip marker; powder blush; sturdy thread (for attaching head to body); 2 pairs children’s knee-high socks (black); stuffing; glue gun; white paint; pointed artist’s brush; natural raffia.
Making patterns, cutting fabric: Enlarge patterns. From muslin fold muslin in half. Place body back on muslin, dash lines aligned with fold; cut one; unfold for complete piece. Cut two body fronts, four legs, four arms. Cut a 25″ circle for head. From solid-color fold fabric in half, right sides facing. Place shirt front on fabric, dash lines aligned with fold; cut one; unfold for complete piece. Place sleeve on fabric, dash line aligned with fold; cut two. Cut two shirt backs. From check Fold fabric in half, right sides facing. Cut two overall pieces (pair of fronts, pair of backs). Cut two overall straps, 21e x 15″; two leg bands, 3″ x 7W, and a bow tie, 4″ x 24″.
Stitching scarecrow: Scarecrow D Pieces are pinned/ stitched together, right sides facing, 1/4″ seams allowed. Body Stitch body fronts together, along center front. Pin body back to body front; stitch sides, leaving arms, neck and bottom open. Do not turn right side out. Arms and legs Stitch pairs of arms and legs together; leave one end open. Turn; stuff; stitch closed. Attaching Insert arms and legs into body cavity, raw edges even; pin; stitch across arms and bottom. Turn; arms and legs will pop out. Stuffing Stuff body for 3″; insert dowel (support), leaving 5″ extending from neck (for head support). Stuff body to top edge of neck.
Making head: Stuff stocking until head is 8″L and 22″ in circumference. Set aside (head will be attached to body after clothes are made and doll is dressed. Stitching shirt: Shirt front Fold %” tucks along fold lines; stitch. Shirt back Pin pieces together; stitch along back seam to dot. Pin front to back; stitch sides to armhole and across shoulders. Sleeves Fold sleeve in half lengthwise; stitch straight edge. Fold/baste tiny pleats at shoulder where indicated. Ease sleeve into armhole; gather fullness to fit; stitch. Turn up sleeve ends for cuffs; stitch. Hem shirt. Place shirt on doll.
Stitching overalls: Front and back Pin pairs of pieces together; leave waist and leg open. Run a row of basting stitches along bottom edge of each pant leg; gather slightly Leg bands Pin leg band to right side of each pant leg, right sides facing; adjust gathers to fit; stitch. Bring band to inside of pant leg; stitch. Bib Fold fabric down W’ (at dash line) to wrong side of overalls; stitch. Place overalls on doll. Pleat overalls where shown on pattern; tack pleats. Straps Fold each strip lengthwise in half, right sides facing. Stitch side and one end. Turn right side out; turn in open end; stitch closed; press. Tack a strap to bib (at pleat); secure with a button. Bring straps over shoulders; crisscross them at back; tuck ends inside overalls (at pleats); secure with a button. Bow tie Stitch strip same as for straps. Set aside.
Attaching head: Insert stocking head over dowel (extending from neck). Tuck under excess stocking. Whipstitch head to neck with sturdy thread. Place muslin circle over stocking head; gather tightly around neck with a doubled length of raffia. Trim muslin 2″ below gathers.
Facial features: Nose From felt cut a 31/2″ circle. Run a row of basting stitches around edges; stuff; gather tightly; knot. Hot-glue nose to scarecrow face. With fine-tip marker, draw the mouth and eyes. Rub on blusher for cheeks; dot on freckles with marker.
Details: Bow tie Tie stitched strip in a bow; tack or hot-glue to neck. Hair Cut 10″ lengths of raffia; hot-glue to head. Hat Hot-glue hat to head. Fold back brim; hot-glue to secure. Tie a raffia bow; hot-glue to upturned brim. Cut 11/2″ squares of fabric (patches); hot-glue to brim and crown.
Mittens and shoes: Each Cut off toe sections; stuff and slip on ends of arms and legs. Tie on with raffia.
LITTLE FARM WAGON
You need: Purchased wooden wagon (14″L x 8″W); purchased wooden heart shapes (22 pieces 11/4″W; 2 pieces 11/2″W; 4 pieces 31/4nY); acrylic paint in two colors (we used blue and green); sponge brush; artist’s brush; glue gun; straight pin; pencil with eraser; premade bows (6 pieces).
Painting: Wagon Paint wagon, handle, axles and wheel hubs blue. Paint wheels green. Hearts Paint smallest hearts blue, larger hearts (two sizes) green. Details—Dots Insert straight pin in pencil eraser. Use the head of the pin and the end of brush handle to apply blue and green dots around edges of hearts, wheels and wagon. Adding hearts: Wheels Hot-glue four small hearts to each wheel. Handle Hot-glue one midsize heart to a large heart (centered). Hot-glue two small hearts to two midsize hearts. Hot-glue a bow to each small heart. Hot-glue assemblies to handle, larger heart at bottom, two smaller hearts above. Sides Hot-glue each remaining small heart to a large heart; hot-glue a bow to each. Hot-glue one heart to each side (between wheels) and one to back end (centered).
WOODEN BOX
You need: Unfinished oval bentwood box (our box measures 12″ x 18″ x 8″H); sandpaper; white semigloss oil paint (primer); base colors (Sherwin-Williams Custom-Mixed Rosemaling colors—Viking blue and Valdres red—or substitute Delta Ceramcoat—midnight blue, Indian red oxide, white); artist’s oil paint (Prussian blue, burnt sienna, raw umber, titanium white, cadmium red light, Mars yellow, cadmium yellow light, transparent oxide red, alizarin crimson, Mars black); Liquin (from Windsor Newton); matte varnish (spray can); artist’s transfer paper; brushes (filbert/cat’s tongue, sizes #2, #4, #6, #8; round, sizes #2, #4, #6; and liner/script brush, sizes #10/0, #0 for #11); sponge brush; plastic wrap.
Making patterns: Enlarge the quarter pattern for the lid, and the partial pattern for box sides. The pattern for the box sides is a continuous design that runs around the box.
Prepping box and lid: Sand wood. Apply several coats of semi gloss oil paint, sanding each coat smooth before applying next coat. Paint inside of box and lid blue.
Applying base colors: Lid Paint top Viking blue, rim Valdres red. Box Mark a 116″ border around top and bottom; paint middle section Viking blue, border Valdres red. Paint inside box and lid Viking blue. Or substitute midnight blue (mixed with a dab of white) and Indian red oxide. For either type of paint, let dry; spray with a coat of matte varnish.
Stippling border: Combine alizarin crimson and red oxide. Add Liquin so paint has a creamy consistency. With sponge brush apply a thin coat; wad up some plastic wrap, then dab wrap across border to create a mottled effect. Let dry.
Transferring design: Lid Place quarter-pattern on lid. Slip transfer paper underneath; trace. Flip pattern for each quadrant; trace as before. Box Position pattern 1″ below top border (so painted design will not be hidden by lid rim). Slip transfer paper underneath; trace, then flip pattern; trace, making a continuous floral band around box.
Painting: Before painting box, practice rosemaling technique on paper. Brush on first color, then before it dries, apply shading color. Finally apply highlight hue, using a single stroke for each color. (Do not go over a stroke again; this muddies colors.) When dry, apply outlines and tendrils in a single stroke. Start with a heavier pressure, then lighten up as you taper off.
CROCHETED AFGHAN
You need: Red Heart Super Saver yarn, 4 sk soft white, 2 sk each rose pink, country rose, hunter green, mint; size H crochet hook. Gauge: 4 sc = 1″; 4 rows = 1″. Afghan is worked in back loops only to create the ridged effect. Two rows of sc (single crochet) make one ridge. To do: With white, ch 285. Row 1: Sc in 2d ch from hook; 2 sc; sk 1 ch *se in next 10 ch, 3 sc in next ch—point made; 10 sc, sk 2 ch—indent made* rep 11 times more; sk 1 ch; 3 sc to end. Ch 1, turn. Row 2: 3 sc *sk 1 sc, 10 sc, 3 sc in next sc; 10 sc, sk 2 sc* rep 11 times more. Ch 1, turn. Rows 3-11 White. Rows 12-18: Hunter green. Rows 19-25: Mint. Rows 26-32 Country rose. Rows 33-38: Rose pink. Rows 39-44: White. Rows 45-50: Hunter green. Rows 51-56: Mint. Rows 57-62: Country rose. Rows 63-68: Rose pink. Rows 69-128: White. Rows 129-134: Rose pink. Rows 135-140: Country rose. Rows 141-146: Mint. Rows 147-152: Hunter green. Rows 153-158: White. Rows 159-164: Rose pink. Rows 165-170: Country rose. Rows 171-176: Mint. Rows 177-182: Hunter green. Rows 183-194: White. Fasten off yarn. Weave in yarn ends.
WORM PUZZLE 15″ Long
You need: 1″ x 6″ pine, 15″L; artist’s transfer paper; masking tape; scroll or saber saw; sandpaper; acrylic paint (green, orange, black, white or colors of your choice); brushes; clear polyurethane.
Making pattern: Enlarge. Position transfer paper on pine; tape pattern in place; trace.
Cutting pieces: Cut out puzzle pieces with scroll or saber saw. Sand rough edges smooth.
Painting: Paint pieces as shown or as you wish (we left pieces #1, #4, #7 unpainted). When dry, add face and numbers. Protect surface by brushing on a coat of polyurethane.
FOUR SEASONS TABLE RUNNER
You need: Cotton fabric (for quilt blocks, white-on-white print, 1 yd; for backing, any print, 11/2 yds; for border, print, 1/2 yd; for appliques, assorted calicos in fat-quarter yds, or choose fabrics from your scrap bag—several shades each of green, brown, yellow, gold, rust; scraps—several shades of red, purple); freezer paper; water-soluble fabric pen; floss (brown, dark olive, yellow); safety pins; quilting thread (white and a color for basting); needle; 3/4″ white ribbon, 20″L. Cutting main quilt pieces (not appliqués): White Cut four squares 141/2″ x 141/2″. Border fabric Cut two strips 31/2″ x 191/2″and Appliquéd Runner 1 Square=1″ two strips 3W’ x 62″. Backing fabric Cut two pieces 191/2″ x 3114″. Binding fabric Cut (on straight grain) two strips 1″ x 20″ and two strips 1″ x 63″ (pieced).
Making applique templates: Enlarge patterns; cut out.
Making appliqués—freezer paper method: Cutting freezer paper patterns Trace templates on smooth (not shiny) side of paper. Cut one paper pattern for each appliqué. Cutting fabric Set iron on wool setting. Place paper pattern (shiny side down) on right side of fabric; press. Cut out appliqués W’ beyond edges of paper pattern (seam allowance); do not remove paper. Applying appliques: Pin appliqué in place (with paper still adhered). Stitch appliqué in place, turning under seam allowance along edge of paper. When appliqué is stitched down, gently peel off paper pattern.
Making vines (for wreath): Cut a strip of brown fabric 1/2″W x 36″L. Press under long edges ie. You’ll need to trim strip to different lengths as indicated for each wreath, below. Appliqués needed for each wreath: Spring (strawberries) From assorted greens Cut eight leaves (four light green, four dark green). Cut 12 dark-green strawberry tops. From assorted reds Cut 12 strawberries. From brown Cut four 5″L vine sections. Summer (ivy and grape dusters) From assorted greens Cut 11 grape leaves. From purple Cut 36 grapes. From brown Cut ten 3″ and two 4″ vine sections. Autumn (oak leaves and acorns) From yellow, gold, rust, green Cut nine oak leaves. From rust cut six berries. From brown Cut seven acorn tops. From light brown or gold Cut seven acorns. From green Cut bow and center knot (circle). From brown Cut 11 vine sections 3″L and two sections 1″L. Winter (holly and berries) From assorted greens Cut eight leaves. From assorted reds Cut 27 holly berries. From red Cut bow and center knot (circle). From brown cut two 2″ vine sections.
Appliqueing wreaths: In center of each white quilt block, draw a 91/2″ circle with fabric marker. Spring Arrange pairs of leaves (one light green, one dark green) around circle. Place vine sections on circle, tucking ends under leaves; appliqué, following directions, above. Pin three berries in space between leaves (two inside wreath, one outside wreath); appliqué. Appliqué a top to each berry. Draw a stem, connecting berries to vine; embroider (in back or stem stitches), using two strands of brown floss. (You’ll make and tack on white-ribbon flowers when quilt top is completed; see below for method.) Summer Arrange leaves around circle, leaving a 31/2″ space between them at lower section of wreath to allow vines to cross. Position vines between leaves as you did for Spring wreath; appliqué. Position bunches of six grapes inside wreath; appliqué. Freehand draw tendrils randomly along vine; embroider (in back or stem stitches), using two strands of dark-olive floss. Autumn Arrange leaves around circle, standing one leaf upright at lower section of wreath. Position vines between leaves as you did for Spring wreath, plus a few for branches; appliqué. Arrange an acorn and a top at end of each branch; appliqué. Appliqué berries randomly around wreath. Appliqué bow below upright leaf. Winter Arrange bow at lower section of wreath; position leaves around circle. Set two vine sections at opposite sides of wreath (between top-two left-hand and top-two right-hand leaves);